While seeing a cryptic two-letter code on your digital display can be intimidating—especially when you have a pile of wet laundry—rest assured that this is a documented electronic glitch. In many cases, it is a temporary software “hiccup” that can be resolved with a specific reset procedure or a simple inspection of the wiring harnesses. Whether it’s a loose connection or a component that needs replacing, this guide will walk you through the nuances of restoring your dryer to full functionality.
Quick Repair Specs
| Difficulty | Moderate (Involves electrical testing & disassembly) |
| Estimated Time | 45 – 90 Minutes |
| Tools Needed | Phillips Head Screwdriver (#2), Digital Multimeter, Needle-nose Pliers, Putty Knife |
| Estimated Cost | $0 (Reset) to $180 (Main Control Board replacement) |
Symptoms of Samsung Dryer Error Et
The most obvious sign is the “Et” (or sometimes “EE”) code flashing on the LED display, but the failure often manifests through several physical behaviors before or during the error state. You may notice the dryer suddenly stopping mid-cycle, leaving clothes damp and heavy. The control panel might become completely unresponsive to touch, or buttons may lag significantly when pressed.
⚠️ Safety First: Read Before Repairing
Incorrect repairs can cause fire or injury. Always verify with the manufacturer’s manual.
In some instances, the dryer might continue to tumble but fail to produce heat because the control board cannot communicate with the relay that activates the heating element. Additionally, users often report hearing a faint clicking noise coming from the back of the unit—this is the sound of the relays on the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) attempting to engage and failing due to the data communication error.
Why is my Samsung showing Error Et?
The “Et” error is fundamentally a failure of data integrity within the machine’s central nervous system. Unlike a broken belt or a blown thermal fuse, this is a logic-based failure. Here are the primary reasons why this communication breaks down:
- Voltage Spikes and Dirty Power: Modern Samsung dryers are essentially high-powered computers. A sudden power surge (from a thunderstorm) or “dirty” power (fluctuations in the local grid) can corrupt the data stored on the EEPROM chip. When the processor tries to read this corrupted data, it triggers the Et safety shut-off.
- Electro-Mechanical Vibration: Dryers are high-vibration environments. Over hundreds of cycles, the constant shaking can cause the delicate wire harnesses that connect the display panel to the main control board to wiggle loose. A slightly unseated pin in a plastic connector is often enough to break the data stream.
- Component Aging (Capacitor Failure): The main control board uses capacitors to “smooth out” the electricity reaching the EEPROM. If these capacitors leak or bulge over time due to heat exposure, the chip receives “noisy” electricity, leading to communication errors.
- Solder Joint Cracking: The heat generated by the dryer, combined with the cooling phases, causes the control board to expand and contract. This “thermal cycling” can lead to microscopic cracks in the solder joints connecting the EEPROM to the PCB, resulting in an intermittent “Et” code.
How to Fix Samsung Error Et (Step-by-Step)
- Perform a “Hard Logic Reset”:
Before pulling the dryer away from the wall, try a deep reset. Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet or flip the dedicated circuit breaker. Leave it entirely without power for at least 10 minutes. While it is unplugged, press and hold the “Start/Pause” button for 30 seconds. This dissipates the residual “flea power” stored in the board’s capacitors, forcing the EEPROM to reload its instructions from scratch when power is restored.
- Access the Main Control Board:
Using your Phillips head screwdriver, remove the screws located at the back of the top panel (usually two or three screws). Slide the top panel toward the rear of the unit and lift it off. The main control board is typically housed in a plastic casing near the front-right or rear-right of the cabinet. Use a putty knife to gently release any plastic clips holding the housing in place.
- Inspect and Reseat Wire Harnesses:
Locate the various wire bundles (harnesses) plugged into the control board. One by one, unplug them and inspect the metal pins for signs of corrosion or “arcing” (black burn marks). Use needle-nose pliers to ensure the female connectors are tight. Plug them back in firmly; you should hear a distinct “click” when they are fully seated. Often, reseating the Data Communication Cable (the smaller bundle of wires) resolves the Et error immediately.
- Test for Proper Voltage:
Set your multimeter to Volts AC. Carefully (following all safety protocols if testing live) verify that the dryer is receiving the full 240V across the two hot legs at the terminal block. If the board receives “low” voltage (e.g., 180V), the EEPROM chip may fail to initialize, throwing the Et code as a false positive for a hardware failure.
- Inspect the PCB for Physical Damage:
Remove the board from its plastic housing and look at the underside. Use a flashlight to check for “cold solder joints” (dull, cracked, or greyish-looking solder) or scorched components. If you see a capacitor that is “domed” or “bulging” at the top, the board has failed and must be replaced. The EEPROM chip itself is usually a small 8-pin surface-mount component; if there is soot around it, the chip has shorted out.
- Replace the Main Control Board (PCB):
If the hard reset and wire reseating do not clear the code, the EEPROM or the communication trace on the board is permanently damaged. Order a manufacturer-approved replacement board using your dryer’s specific model number (found on the door jamb). Transfer the wires from the old board to the new one one-at-a-time to ensure no wires are crossed, then reassemble the unit.
How to Prevent Error Et
Electronic errors like “Et” are often environmental rather than mechanical. To ensure this doesn’t happen again, follow these preventative measures:
- Install a Dedicated Surge Protector: Most people protect their computers but forget their appliances. Use a high-quality surge protector designed for 240V appliances or a whole-house surge protector. This shields the sensitive EEPROM chip from the “spikes” that cause data corruption.
- Ensure Proper Ventilation: Excess heat inside the dryer cabinet is the #1 killer of control boards. Clean your lint trap before every load and have your external dryer vent professionally cleaned once a year. If the cabinet gets too hot, the solder joints on the control board will degrade much faster.
- Avoid “Ghosting” the Buttons: Do not press buttons rapidly or repeatedly if the dryer doesn’t respond instantly. If the control board is processing, “mashing” the buttons can cause a buffer overflow in the communication line, occasionally triggering a logic error.
FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I just replace the EEPROM chip instead of the whole board?
A: Technically, yes, but it is not recommended for most DIYers. It requires high-level micro-soldering skills and a programmed chip. Samsung does not sell the chip separately; they sell the entire PCB assembly. Replacing the whole board is the only way to ensure the software version matches your dryer’s specific features.
Q: My dryer shows “tE” sometimes too. Is that the same as “Et”?
A: No. While they look similar, “tE” refers to a Thermistor Error (a temperature sensing issue). “Et” is strictly an EEPROM (memory) communication failure. If you see both, it likely means your main control board is failing globally and cannot communicate with any sensors accurately.
Q: Is it worth fixing a Samsung dryer with an Et error?
A: If the dryer is under 7 years old, yes. A replacement board typically costs between $120 and $180. Given that a new Samsung dryer costs $700–$1,100, the repair offers a significant ROI, especially since the mechanical parts (motor, drum, belt) are likely still in good condition.