If you are seeing this code, you’ve likely noticed that your ice production has ground to a halt, or you might hear an occasional clicking sound as the unit attempts to cycle. You might even find that your water dispenser is acting sluggish. Don’t let that blinking display ruin your day; while it looks intimidating, this is a localized issue that most homeowners can tackle with a bit of patience and the right guidance. It’s a common “wear and tear” fault, and I’m going to walk you through exactly how to handle it like a pro.
| Category | Details |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | Moderate (Requires basic electrical testing) |
| Estimated Time | 45 to 90 Minutes |
| Tools Needed | Phillips Head Screwdriver, Digital Multimeter, Needle-nose Pliers, Putty Knife |
| Estimated Cost | $50 – $130 (depending on if the whole ice maker is replaced) |
Symptoms of the Er IS Fault
When your Kenmore starts throwing the Er IS code, it doesn’t always just stop working immediately. In my experience, you’ll see a progression of symptoms before the board finally gives up and locks the display. Here is what to look for:
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- The “Frozen” Display: The most obvious sign is the digital display on the door flashing “Er” on the top and “IS” (or sometimes “1S”) on the bottom. When this happens, the refrigerator often disables the ice and water dispensers as a safety precaution.
- Ice Production Cessation: Because the control board doesn’t know the temperature of the ice tray, it won’t signal the harvest motor to dump the cubes. You’ll have a tray full of ice that simply stays there.
- Intermittent Dispensing: Before the code becomes permanent, you might find the water dispenser works one minute and fails the next. This is usually the sign of a wire harness that is beginning to fray.
- Clicking or Grinding: You may hear the ice maker attempting to find its “home” position. If the sensor is faulty, the motor might over-rotate or struggle to calibrate, leading to mechanical noise coming from the freezer door area.
Why is my Kenmore showing Error Er IS?
In the world of appliance repair, we don’t just look at what broke; we look at why it broke. The Er IS code is almost exclusively found on Kenmore units manufactured by LG (French door models). Here are the primary culprits:
1. Failed Ice Room Thermistor: The thermistor is a small resistor that changes its electrical resistance based on temperature. Over time, the constant “thermal cycling”—moving from freezing to slightly warmer and back—can cause the internal components of the sensor to crack or drift out of calibration. Once the resistance value goes to infinity (open circuit) or zero (short circuit), the main board triggers the error.
2. Cracked or Pinched Wire Harness: This is the “hidden” industry secret. Since the ice maker is often located in the door, the wires must pass through the door hinge. Every time you open and close that heavy fridge door, you are flexing those copper wires. Over 5 to 10 years, that copper fatigues and snaps inside the insulation. You’ll have a visual wire that looks fine, but the internal connection is severed.
3. Moisture Intrusion in Connectors: If your door seal isn’t 100% airtight, humid air enters the ice compartment. This moisture can condense on the electrical plug-in connectors for the sensor, causing corrosion (green crust) that disrupts the low-voltage signal going back to the brain of the fridge.
4. Main Control Board Logic Failure: While rare, the “brain” of the unit can occasionally suffer a voltage spike that fries the specific circuit responsible for reading the ice maker sensor. If you replace the ice maker and the wiring is perfect, the board is your last stop.
Comprehensive Repair Guide
- Safety First – Kill the Power:
Before you even think about touching a screwdriver, pull the refrigerator out and unplug it from the wall. You’re going to be working near water lines and electrical harnesses. Water and electricity are a bad mix. Leave it unplugged for at least 10 minutes to allow any capacitors on the control board to discharge.
- Access the Ice Maker Assembly:
Open the freezer door (or the left-hand refrigerator door on French door models). Remove the ice bucket by lifting it up and out. You will likely see a plastic cover held in by one or two Phillips head screws. Remove these screws and set them aside in a secure spot—don’t lose them in the floor grille! Use a putty knife to gently pry the plastic housing away from the door liner. Be careful not to crack the plastic; it’s brittle when cold.
- Inspect the Wire Harness:
Locate the wire bundle leading from the ice maker into the door. Look specifically at the area near the door hinge. WARNING: Check for any signs of frayed insulation or exposed copper. If you see a broken wire here, you’ve found your “Er IS” culprit. You can often strip and solder these wires back together, or use heat-shrink butt connectors if there is enough slack.
- Test the Sensor Resistance:
Disconnect the electrical plug leading to the ice maker. Set your multimeter to the Ohms (Ω) setting. Locate the two wires for the thermistor (usually the two smallest gauge wires of the same color, often white or pink). At room temperature (77°F), you should see roughly 10k Ohms. If the freezer is cold, that number will be much higher (around 30k-40k Ohms). If your meter reads “OL” (Open Link) or “0.00”, the sensor is dead and the whole ice maker assembly typically needs replacement.
- Replace the Ice Maker:
On most modern Kenmores, the sensor is molded into the ice maker frame and isn’t sold separately. To replace the unit, unscrew the mounting bracket, unplug the main harness, and slide the old unit out. Slide the new unit in, ensuring the water fill tube aligns perfectly with the entry port on the ice maker. If it’s misaligned, you’ll end up with a block of ice at the bottom of your door.
- Restore Power and Reset:
Plug the unit back in. The “Er IS” code might still be there initially. To clear the logic, press and hold the “Ice Plus” (or Ultra Ice) and “Freezer” buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds. This forces a system check. You should hear a beep, and the display should return to the temperature settings.
How to Prevent Error Er IS
I’ve told my customers for years: a little prevention saves you a $400 repair bill. Here is how you keep that “IS” code from coming back:
- Install a High-Quality Surge Protector: Modern Kenmore/LG fridges use “Inverter” technology and sensitive logic boards. A simple power flicker during a thunderstorm can “confuse” the sensor readings or fry a resistor. Use a surge protector specifically rated for major appliances.
- Check Your Door Alignment: If your fridge doors are slightly crooked, it puts extra tension on the wire harness every time you close the door. Ensure the leveling legs at the bottom of the fridge are adjusted so the unit tilts slightly backward, allowing the doors to close gently and stay aligned.
- Periodic Defrosting: Every few months, check for ice buildup around the ice maker fan and sensor. If ice encases the sensor, it can’t read the air temperature correctly, leading to “false” errors. A quick 10-minute blast with a hairdryer (on LOW heat) can clear out any dangerous frost buildup.
FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I just leave the fridge unplugged to “reset” the code?
A: You can try, and it might work for an hour or two. However, the Er IS code is a hardware fault. If the sensor is bad or a wire is snapped, the computer will detect the fault again as soon as it tries to cycle the ice maker. A reset is a temporary bandage, not a fix.
Q: My water still works, but the ice maker doesn’t. Is it still Er IS?
A: Yes. The water dispenser and the ice maker are on separate electrical loops, but they share the same display panel. The Er IS code specifically targets the ice maker’s feedback loop. If the board doesn’t see a safe temperature, it won’t allow the ice maker to cycle, even if the water valve is working fine.
Q: Why is the part so expensive?
A: Most Kenmore (LG-made) units don’t allow you to just swap the $10 sensor. They integrate the sensor into the mold of the ice maker to ensure it stays waterproof. This means you have to buy the whole motor/tray/sensor assembly, which drives up the cost but ensures a much more reliable repair.