If you are seeing this code, you’ve probably noticed that your washer is acting a bit temperamental. Perhaps it’s refusing to start a cycle, or maybe you’ve noticed the water temperature isn’t matching your settings—leaving your whites dingy in cold water when they should be hot. You might even hear the machine drain prematurely as a safety precaution. But take a deep breath, friend! While “thermistor” sounds like a complicated piece of space-age tech, it’s really just a small thermometer for your wash water. You are more than capable of diagnosing and fixing this yourself with a little bit of patience and this guide to help you through every step. We’re going to get that Speed Queen back to its legendary performance together!
Symptoms of a Speed Queen Thermistor Failure
Before we start taking things apart, let’s confirm we are looking at the right culprit. The “E tY” code is the biggest giveaway, but your washer might be “talking” to you in other ways before the code even stays locked on the screen. Here are the common physical signs:
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- The Digital Display Flash: The code “E tY” will typically flash on the control panel, often halting the cycle entirely. In some models, the machine may beep incessantly to get your attention.
- Incorrect Water Temperatures: You might set the machine to “Hot,” but find the water inside is ice cold. This happens because the control board doesn’t know how much hot water to let in, so it defaults to a “safe” temperature or fails to mix the water correctly.
- Mid-Cycle Stalling: The washer may fill up with water and then simply sit there. Because it can’t verify that the water is safe for the fabric type selected, it refuses to move on to the agitation phase.
- Premature Draining: In some safety-logic sequences, if the thermistor reports a temperature that is dangerously high (even if it’s a false reading), the machine will immediately trigger the drain pump to empty the tub and prevent damage.
Comprehensive Repair Guide
Alright, let’s roll up our sleeves! I’ll be right here with you. We are going to check the connections first, test the part, and replace it if necessary. Follow these steps carefully.
Step 1: Safety First!
Before you touch a single screw, unplug your washer from the wall outlet. Never work on an energized appliance. Since we are working near water valves, you should also turn off the hot and cold water supply faucets behind the machine to prevent any accidental leaks while we are moving things around.
Step 2: Accessing the Thermistor
On most Speed Queen top-loaders, the thermistor is located on the water inlet valve assembly at the back of the machine. You will need to remove the control hood (the “dashboard” of the washer). Use your Phillips head screwdriver or nut driver to remove the screws securing the control panel—usually located at the back or hidden under plastic end caps. Carefully tilt the control panel forward or lift it up, depending on your specific model, and set it in a way that doesn’t put stress on the wiring.
Step 3: Visual Inspection of Wiring
Look for the wires leading to the water valve assembly. You’ll see a small plug with two wires—this is your thermistor connection. Look very closely for any signs of fraying, black soot (indicating a short), or green/white crusty buildup (corrosion). If the wires look pinched or broken, you’ve found your problem! You may just need to repair the wire rather than buy a new part.
Step 4: The Multimeter Test
To be 100% sure the part is bad, pull the plastic connector off the thermistor. Set your digital multimeter to the **Ohms (Ω)** setting. Place one probe on each of the two metal terminals of the thermistor. At room temperature (about 70°F), you should typically see a reading between **10k and 15k Ohms**. If your meter shows “OL” (Open Loop) or “0.00,” the thermistor is definitely dead and needs to be replaced.
Step 5: Replacing the Thermistor
If the test failed, it’s time for a new one. In many Speed Queen models, the thermistor is integrated into the water valve assembly. If yours isn’t a separate clip-on part, you will need to replace the entire water inlet valve. Unscrew the mounting screws holding the valve to the back of the cabinet, swap the hoses to the new valve, and plug the wiring harness back in. Make sure the connections are “seated” firmly—you should feel a little click.
Step 6: Reassembly and Testing
Put the control hood back into place and secure the screws. Turn your water valves back on and plug the machine in. Run a “Small” load on a “Warm” setting. If the machine fills and begins to agitate without the E tY code appearing, give yourself a pat on the back—you just saved a service call!
| Category | Details |
|---|---|
| Difficulty Level | Intermediate (Requires basic tool use and electrical testing) |
| Estimated Time | 45 to 90 minutes |
| Tools Needed | Phillips Head Screwdriver, 1/4″ Nut Driver, Digital Multimeter, Needle-nose Pliers |
| Estimated Cost | $20 – $65 (Depending on if you need a new sensor) |
Why is my Speed Queen showing Error E tY?
It can be frustrating when a high-end machine like a Speed Queen throws an error, but understanding the “why” helps us ensure the fix is permanent. Here are the primary reasons this component fails:
- Component Wear and Tear (Thermal Cycling): The thermistor is a “negative temperature coefficient” (NTC) resistor. It works by changing its electrical resistance based on the water temperature. Over thousands of loads, the constant expansion and contraction of the internal materials caused by switching between hot and cold water can eventually cause the internal circuit of the sensor to crack or “open.”
- Vibration and Wire Chafing: Speed Queens are famous for their powerful spin cycles. While they are built with heavy-duty suspensions, years of vibration can cause the wiring harness leading to the thermistor to rub against the metal frame or the outer tub. If the insulation wears through, the wires can short out or break, cutting off the signal to the control board.
- Corrosion at the Terminals: Laundry rooms are naturally humid environments. If there is even a tiny bit of moisture seepage near the valve assembly or the sensor housing, the metal pins in the connector can develop a layer of oxidation (corrosion). This creates “electrical noise” that confuses the control board, leading to the E tY error.
- Voltage Spikes: While less common, a sudden power surge in your home can damage the sensitive electronics on the main control board that interpret the thermistor’s data. In this case, the sensor might be fine, but the “brain” can no longer understand it.
How to Prevent Error E tY
Now that you’ve fixed it, let’s make sure you never have to see that code again! Maintenance is the key to longevity.
- Install a High-Quality Surge Protector: Since the thermistor relies on delicate resistance readings interpreted by the control board, even a small power surge can cause “ghost errors.” A dedicated appliance surge protector can shield those sensitive electronics.
- Keep the Laundry Room Ventilated: High humidity causes the metal connectors inside your machine to corrode faster. If your laundry room is in a basement or a tight closet, consider using a dehumidifier or keeping the door open during use to keep the air dry and the connections clean.
- Level Your Machine: Excessive vibration is the enemy of wiring. Ensure your Speed Queen is perfectly level on the floor. If the machine “walks” or bangs during the spin cycle, it’s putting physical stress on the wiring harness we just repaired. Adjust the leveling legs until it’s rock solid.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I still use my washer while it has the E tY error?
A: It is not recommended. While some machines might allow you to finish a cold-wash cycle, most Speed Queen logic boards will lock the machine down as a safety measure. Continuing to use a machine with a faulty sensor can lead to overheating or erratic behavior that might damage other components like the main control board.
Q: Is the thermistor the same thing as the water valve?
A: Not exactly, but they are often “roommates.” On many modern Speed Queen washers, the thermistor is physically built into the plastic housing of the water inlet valve. This means even if only the sensor is broken, you often have to replace the entire valve assembly. Check your parts manual to see if your specific model offers the thermistor as a standalone part.
Q: How do I know if the problem is the control board instead?
A: If you test the thermistor with a multimeter and it gives you a healthy reading (approx. 10k-15k Ohms), but the E tY error persists after you’ve checked the wiring for breaks, the issue likely lies in the control board’s ability to read the sensor. At that point, the board would need to be replaced, which is a more expensive but still manageable DIY task.