How to Fix Samsung Refrigerator Error Code 39E: Ice Maker Sensor Error (Full Guide)

Repair Specifications

  • Technical Difficulty: Intermediate (Requires electrical testing and component removal).
  • Estimated Time: 45 to 90 Minutes.
  • Required Tools:
    • Phillips #2 Head Screwdriver (Insulated handle preferred).
    • Digital Multimeter (Capable of measuring Ohms/Resistance).
    • Small Flathead Screwdriver or Putty Knife (For prying plastic tabs).
    • Handheld Hairdryer (To be used only on low heat for defrosting).
  • Estimated Part Cost: $30 (Sensor only) to $150 (Complete Ice Maker Assembly).

The Samsung Refrigerator Error 39E is a critical diagnostic code indicating a malfunction within the **Ice Maker Sensor circuit**. Specifically, the main control board has detected an invalid resistance value or a complete “open” circuit from the thermistor located inside the ice-making unit. This communication failure prevents the appliance from determining when to harvest ice, leading to a total cessation of ice production.

While this error primarily halts ice functions, you may also notice frost buildup around the ice room, clicking noises from the motor trying to engage, or even lukewarm water dispensing if the system has partially locked out other functions. **DO NOT PANIC.** While this requires technical intervention, it is a solvable hardware issue that can be addressed by following strict safety protocols and systematic troubleshooting.

The Complete Solution

The Complete Solution: Step-by-Step Fix

SAFETY WARNING: Before proceeding, you must disconnect the refrigerator from all power sources. Failure to do so exposes you to a lethal risk of electric shock. Unplug the unit or shut off the dedicated circuit breaker. Verify the power is off by checking if the interior lights remain dark.

⚠️ Safety Precaution: High Voltage

Before unscrewing any panel, ensure you have the correct service manual for safety.


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  1. Clear and Access the Ice Room: Open the freezer or the left-hand refrigerator door (depending on your model). Remove the ice bucket by lifting the front and pulling it toward you. If the bucket is frozen stuck, do not use excessive force as you will shatter the plastic gears. Use a hairdryer on the lowest heat setting for 5-10 minutes to melt the ice bridge holding the bucket in place.
  2. Remove the Ice Maker Assembly: Locating the single Phillips screw on the front or bottom of the ice maker shroud. Once the screw is removed, there is a plastic locking tab at the top. Use your thumb to depress the tab while pulling the entire unit forward. CAUTION: Do not yank the unit; it is still connected by a wire harness.
  3. Disconnect the Wire Harness: Press the locking clip on the electrical connector and pull it apart. Inspect the pins for green or black corrosion. If corrosion is present, the harness may need to be cleaned with electrical contact cleaner or replaced.
  4. Perform the Multimeter Test: Set your multimeter to the 20k Ohm scale. Locate the two wires leading to the thermistor (usually the two thinnest wires, often white or sky blue). Place your probes on the terminals. At room temperature (approx. 77°F), you should see a reading near 5k Ohms. If the meter reads “1” or “OL,” the sensor is dead and must be replaced.

    SAFETY NOTE: Ensure your hands are dry and you are not touching the metal tips of the probes during the test to avoid false readings from your body’s own resistance.
  5. Replace the Sensor or Assembly: On many modern Samsung units, the sensor is molded into the ice maker frame. If the sensor is bad, you must replace the entire Ice Maker Assembly. If your model has a clip-on sensor, unclip the old one, apply a small amount of food-grade silicone grease to the new sensor’s bulb to prevent moisture ingress, and clip it into place.
  6. Reinstall and Reset: Plug the harness back in until you hear a “click.” Slide the unit back onto its rails and replace the mounting screw. Restore power to the refrigerator. Once the display lights up, press and hold the “Ice Room Test Button” (usually a small clear or white rubber button on the side of the ice maker) for 3 seconds. A chime will sound, indicating the unit is performing a self-test and clearing the 39E code.

Detailed Diagnosis: Root Causes

To effectively rectify the 39E error, one must understand the underlying mechanical and electrical failures that trigger the control board’s alarm. This is rarely a “glitch” and usually involves a physical failure of the following components:

  • Thermistor Resistance Drift: The ice maker sensor is a Negative Temperature Coefficient (NTC) thermistor. Over time, constant temperature cycling from -2°F to 30°F causes the internal chemical composition of the sensor to degrade. This results in “resistance drift,” where the sensor sends a voltage signal to the board that doesn’t match the actual temperature, eventually falling outside the “safe” parameters programmed into the CPU.
  • Moisture Incursion in the Wiring Harness: Samsung ice rooms are notorious for air leaks. When warm, humid kitchen air enters the ice compartment, it condenses. If this moisture penetrates the wire harness connector, it causes pin corrosion or a “short-to-ground.” The resulting electrical noise is interpreted by the main PCB as a 39E sensor error.
  • Mechanical Stress/Vibration: The ice maker is a high-vibration environment. The constant movement of the harvest arm and the torque of the ejector motor can, over several years, cause the delicate wires leading to the sensor to fray or snap, resulting in an “open circuit” (infinite resistance).
  • Main Control Board (PCB) Logic Failure: In rare instances, the sensor is functional, but the “reading” circuit on the main control board has failed due to a voltage spike or a capacitor leak. This means the board can no longer “see” the sensor, even if the sensor is brand new.

Symptoms of Error 39E

Identifying the early warning signs of a 39E failure is vital to preventing further damage to the refrigerator’s control logic. The most prominent symptom is the digital display flashing “39 E” or “39 C”; in some models, the segments of the temperature display will blink rhythmically to indicate the specific sensor failure.

Physically, you will notice that the ice maker has completely stopped dumping cubes into the tray. You may hear the internal cooling fan running constantly as it tries to lower the temperature of a sensor that is no longer reporting accurately. Furthermore, you might find a thick layer of “snowy” frost accumulating around the back of the ice maker assembly. In severe cases, the water dispenser may provide only room-temperature water because the system has disabled the cooling loop for the ice room to prevent a potential freeze-up of the internal water lines.

How to Prevent Error 39E

To ensure this critical failure does not recur, the Safety Compliance protocol recommends the following preventative measures:

  • Seal the Ice Room: The leading cause of sensor failure is moisture. Inspect the white gasket around the ice room door. If you see gaps, use food-grade silicone sealant to close them. This prevents warm air from entering and creating the condensation that destroys sensors.
  • Install a Power Surge Protector: Since the 39E error is monitored by the delicate Main PCB, a sudden power surge from a thunderstorm or utility flick can “fry” the sensing circuit. Using a dedicated appliance surge protector can save you from a $300 control board replacement.
  • Monthly Defrost Inspections: Once a month, remove the ice bucket and inspect the back of the ice maker. If you see “fuzzy” frost, it means the heater is struggling or there is an air leak. Clearing this frost manually prevents the sensor from being encased in ice, which leads to resistance drift.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Can I just “Hard Reset” the fridge to make the 39E error go away?
A: You can temporarily clear the code by unplugging the unit for 10 minutes, but this is a diagnostic “mask,” not a fix. The control board will re-scan the sensor within 2 hours, detect the same faulty resistance, and the 39E code will return. Continuous resetting can eventually damage the board’s memory sectors.

Q: Is Error 39E the same as Error 39C?
A: Yes. Depending on the year of manufacture and whether the display is LED or LCD, the “E” for Error and “C” for Communication/Circuit are used interchangeably. Both point directly to the Ice Maker Thermistor circuit.

Q: My multimeter shows 10k Ohms; is the sensor good?
A: Resistance is temperature-dependent. If the ice room is currently frozen (around 0°F), 10k to 13k Ohms is a normal reading. If the room is at room temperature and you see 10k Ohms, the sensor has drifted and is faulty. Always calibrate your expectations based on the current temperature of the component.

👉 Need more help? Check our full Samsung Troubleshooting Archive.

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